The INKEY List 10% Azelaic Acid Serum for skin with dark spots
Azelaic Acid
Allantoin
Glycerin
Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
NiacinamideHigh
- HighNormal Skin Fit
- HighEffectiveness
- HighSafety
A great choice for skin with dark spots; a few serums fit it even better.
This fit is calculated for the concerns frequently associated with dark spots: hyperpigmentation, sun spots, and uneven skin tone. For scores and recommendations based on your full skin profile, including your 12D face scan results and any goals or preferences you have, please use the Lovi app.
Page built Nov 8, 2026How the Fit score works
Lovi Assistant explains
- Highly suitable for your normal skin, this serum effectively targets pigmentation and redness with azelaic acid, which offers anti-inflammatory and brightening benefits, complemented by glycerin for hydration.
- The formulation is also beneficial for evening skin tone, with ingredients like allantoin and hydrolyzed gardenia florida extract contributing to a smoother complexion.
- The safety profile is excellent, with no harsh ingredients or irritants, making it a safe choice for your skin.
How to apply
- Apply this serum as part of your PM routine starting 3x/week and build up to daily use if your skin likes it.
- Place the serum after cleansing and toning, but before your moisturizer.
- Gently press 2-3 drops of the serum into your skin and wait a minute for it to absorb.
- Apply the serum on dry skin to help fade pigmentation effectively.
- Avoid the eye area and always use SPF 30+ during the day.
People Say
★4.3Overall rating based on 1.1k+ reviewsIt also often smooths skin texture and evens tone. Some users report it can be drying, necessitating immediate moisturizer application.
Highlights
Reduces redness Mostly Mentioned
- “calms redness instantly”
- “visibly less red”
- “green tint neutralizes flushing”
Clears acne Often Mentioned
- “cleared hormonal acne”
- “fades post-acne marks”
- “stops new breakouts”
- “shrinks cystic spots”
Affordable and effective Sometimes Noted
- “great value”
- “better than expensive alternatives”
- “unbeatable price point”
- “effective budget option”
Smoothes texture Sometimes Noted
- “skin feels softer”
- “reduced sebaceous filaments”
- “smoother complexion”
- “less bumpy texture”
Drying and tight Sometimes Noted
- “feels very drying”
- “skin felt tight”
- “needs heavy moisturizer”
- “dried out my face”
Itching and tingling Rarely Noted
- “itchy for 10 minutes”
- “tingles upon application”
- “mild stinging sensation”
- “itchy but no rash”
Small packaging Rarely Noted
- “tube is tiny”
- “runs out quickly”
- “hard to get last bit”
- “wish it was bigger”
Texture and pilling Rarely Noted
- “pills under makeup”
- “thick lotion not serum”
- “hard to layer”
- “chalky finish”
Sources: lovi.care, boots.com, lookfantastic.com, cultbeauty.com, hometesterclub.com, influenster.com, and more
Questions and answers
What makes The INKEY List 10% Azelaic Acid Serum a great fit for skin with dark spots?
This serum is a great fit because azelaic acid effectively targets dark spots and redness, while glycerin keeps your skin hydrated. It also helps even out your skin tone with ingredients like allantoin and hydrolyzed gardenia florida extract for a smoother complexion, and is very safe with no harsh irritants.
Dermatology and Therapy, 2024Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2017
Which ingredients make this serum a good fit for skin with dark spots?
Azelaic acid makes this serum a great fit because it helps fade dark spots and reduce redness. Glycerin and allantoin also support a smoother, more even complexion while keeping your skin calm.
What does Azelaic Acid do for skin with dark spots?
Azelaic acid helps fade dark spots and uneven skin tone by slowing down the overactive pigment production in your skin cells. It is unlikely to cause irritation and may gradually clear up stubborn marks left behind by breakouts or sun exposure.
Dermatology and Therapy, 2024Archives of Dermatological Research, 1990
What does Allantoin do for skin with dark spots?
Where does this serum go in a skincare routine for skin with dark spots?
This treatment serum goes in the evening routine after cleansing and toning, and before moisturizing. Putting treatments in the evening helps with simplicity and extra safety around sun exposure.
Can I use this serum with retinol, and in what order?
You can use this serum with retinol by applying your retinol first, waiting for it to absorb, and then following with this azelaic acid treatment. Because this formula has an excellent safety profile without harsh irritants, it is unlikely to cause trouble when paired properly.
How often should I use this serum?
You can use this serum in your evening routine, applying it once a day. Its gentle ingredients make it a safe choice for regular use on your skin without harsh irritation.
Can this serum clog pores, cause breakouts or purging for skin with dark spots?
This serum is unlikely to clog pores or cause breakouts for skin with dark spots because it has a very safe formula without harsh ingredients or irritants. It may even help clear dark spots and redness while keeping your skin calm and smooth.
Is this serum fragrance-free and alcohol-free?
Yes, it has no fragrance and no drying alcohol.
What the research says
Application of 15% azelaic acid gel significantly reduced post-inflammatory erythema and hyperpigmentation, decreased hemoglobin and melanin content, improved quality of life, and contributed to acne improvement in patients with mild to moderate acne compared to placebo.
Dermatology and Therapy, 2024A single application of a moisturizing fluid containing hyaluronic acid 1%, glycerin 5%, and Centella asiatica stem cells extract significantly increased skin hydration by 29% and reduced transepidermal water loss at 24 hours compared to baseline and an untreated control site in twenty healthy women.
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2017GarPepair and its active ingredients geniposide and genipin-1-beta-D-gentiobioside significantly upregulated mRNA and protein expression of ZO-1 in lipopolysaccharide-induced HaCat cells while showing low acute toxicity on zebrafish, demonstrating high safety and skin barrier repair efficacy.
Natural Product Research, 2026Crocin exhibits antioxidant potential, protects squalene against UVA-induced peroxidation, prevents inflammatory mediator release, and modulates NF-kB-related and glycosylation-related gene expression in normal human epidermal keratinocytes and human dermal fibroblasts in vitro.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018Azelaic acid nanocrystal hydrogel 10% achieved a higher success rate and greater lesion reduction than azelaic acid cream 20% in patients with mild to moderate facial acne.
Pharmaceutics, 2021Topical application of a dermocosmetic containing Myrtus communis extract and azelaic acid reduced acne relapses and helped maintain remission compared to a light moisturizing cream in adult females in the acne maintenance phase over 16 weeks.
Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 2023Topical administration of 20% azelaic acid cream and 5% tranexamic acid solution comparably improved acne-related postinflammatory hyperpigmentation in patients with acne vulgaris, while tranexamic acid demonstrated a significantly better safety profile at week 4.
Journal of Research in Medical Sciences, 2023Topical gel containing chitosan, 0.2% chlorhexidine, allantoin and dexpanthenol did not improve postoperative comfort regarding swelling and pain, but improved the wound's aesthetic appearance following impacted lower third molar extraction compared to no gel.
Medicina Oral, Patologia Oral Y Cirugia Bucal, 2016A topical gel containing chitosan, chlorhexidine, allantoin, and dexpanthenol significantly reduced postoperative pain, trismus, swelling, and analgesic consumption, while improving wound healing after third molar surgery compared to a placebo.
Medicina Oral, Patologia Oral Y Cirugia Bucal, 2020An overnight patch containing Allium cepa extract and allantoin safely promotes scar healing after dermatologic surgery, resulting in significantly greater reductions in observer- and patient-assessed POSAS scores compared to no treatment.
Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, 2018The emollient V0034CR significantly reduced TEWL compared to vehicle and vehicle plus glycerol, and significantly increased corneometry scores compared to vehicle and vehicle plus petrolatum in healthy volunteers with dry skin, demonstrating combined barrier function improvement from petrolatum and hydration improvement from glycerol.
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2020Ten days of treatment with a cream containing 20% glycerin significantly increased skin hydration measured by corneometer values in 17 healthy volunteers compared to a placebo cream, but showed no influence on transepidermal water loss or skin sensitivity to an irritating surfactant.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2001Niacinamide/glycerin body moisturizers provided better rapid and prolonged improvement of cosmetic xerosis through functional improvement of stratum corneum barrier function compared to no treatment and conventional moisturizers in female subjects.
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2012Gardenia jasminoides extract protected against blue light digital stress and premature aging with a decrease in wrinkle number by -21% compared to placebo.
International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2023Gardenia jasminoides extract dose-dependently enhanced cell viability, attenuated UVB-induced mRNA expressions of IL-1β and TNF-α in HaCaT keratinocytes, and indirectly inhibited MMP-1 protein expression in human dermal fibroblasts compared to UVB exposure alone.
Evidence-based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2014Topical post-laser application of human adipocyte-derived mesenchymal stem cell media combined with niacinamide significantly improved wrinkle index, melanin index, patient satisfaction, and investigator esthetic improvement scores compared to vehicle cream in patients with aging skin.
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2021Topical nicotinamide prevented solar-simulated UV-induced immunosuppression in healthy volunteers, and men experienced immunosuppression at solar-simulated UV doses three times lower than those required for women.
The Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2008Topical 5% niacinamide applied twice daily for 12 weeks reduced fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and skin sallowness, and improved skin elasticity compared to vehicle control in 50 female white subjects with facial photoaging.
Dermatologic Surgery, 2005
Ingredients
Water, Azelaic Acid, Propanediol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Polylysine
Behind this fit score
Lovi calculates every fit score from the full ingredient list with brand-independent rules our dermatologists and cosmetic chemists build and review, and personalizes every pick with AI trained on the real results of millions of users. Lovi trains its fit score models on a proprietary dataset built from more than 10,000 expert-labeled products and more than 100,000 simulated examples, following an internally consistent methodology presented at Cosmoprof, AMWC, and Skin of Color Update.
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Co-founder, Medical Director
Cosmetic chemist, cosmetologist, aesthetic products developer
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Co-founder, CEO and CTO
PhD in computer science, 3x US patent holder, ex-Google, ex-Yandex
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Dr. Sofía Perea Pérez, MD, MSc
Medical Board
Aesthetic medicine practitioner, MSc in Longevity and Anti-Aging Medicine
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Medical Board
Specialist dermatologist, MBBS, MD, IFAAD
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Medical Board
Cosmetic chemist, SCS, IFSCC member
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Medical Board, Medical Advisor
Dermatology MD
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Elina Nazarenko, MD
Medical Board
Dermatology and diagnostic consultant
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Victoria Derkova, MS
Medical Board
Cosmetic chemist, cosmetic development technologist
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