Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol for acne-prone skin

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Questions and answers

What the research says

• Co-delivery of paeonol and madecassoside via nanoemulsions improved transdermal delivery, promoted barrier repair proteins, inhibited inflammatory cytokine secretion in cellular and 3D models, and reduced transepidermal water loss and acne in human facial skin compared to free components.

  Molecules, 2023

• Topical dexpanthenol acts as a moisturizer, improves stratum corneum hydration, accelerates wound healing and epidermal regeneration, reduces erythema, and improves symptoms of skin irritation compared to vehicle or no pretreatment.

  American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2002

• Topical application of (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) to human skin before UV irradiation decreases UV-induced production of hydrogen peroxide by 68-90% and nitric oxide by 30-100%, inhibits leukocyte infiltration and lipid peroxidation by 41-84%, and restores glutathione levels and glutathione peroxidase activity compared to UV exposure alone.

  Carcinogenesis, 2001

• Topical and in vitro application of a Camellia sinensis leaf extract demonstrated immunomodulatory, detoxification, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties while improving mood states, skin hydration, barrier function, rejuvenation, and facial skin health.

  International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2025

• A new topical panthenol-containing emollient significantly improved transepidermal water loss reduction, stratum corneum hydration, and intercellular lipid lamellae length compared with control in healthy subjects without negatively impacting bacterial viability.

  The Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2017

• Topical green tea extract significantly improved clinical symptoms, tear breakup times, and meibomian gland health compared to standard treatment in patients with dry eye and Meibomian Gland Dysfunction.

  Journal of Clinical and Diagnostic Research, 2017

• Topical low-dose green tea extract reduces UVB-induced p53 expression and apoptosis in human skin keratinocytes compared to placebo.

  Experimental Dermatology, 2009

• An anti-acne hydrogel containing Aloe barbadensis, Garcinia mangostana, and Camellia sinensis extracts showed superior antiacne and antiblotch activities compared to 1% clindamycin gel in sixty subjects with mild-moderate acne.

  Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2019

• Moisturizer containing 5% panthenol, madecassoside, and copper-zinc-manganese decreased adverse reactions and downtime after ablative fractional carbon dioxide laser resurfacing with comparable efficacy to 0.02% triamcinolone acetonide cream in 20 subjects.

  Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2019

• Topical dexpanthenol formulated in lipophilic vehicles improved stratum corneum hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss compared to vehicle control in humans.

  Arzneimittel-Forschung, 2000

• Hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid plus dexpanthenol, and isotonic saline nasal sprays all significantly improved dry nose symptoms over four weeks in 240 patients, with hyaluronic acid plus dexpanthenol providing superior nasal moisturisation compared to the other two.

  Auris, Nasus, Larynx, 2020

• A single application of a moisturizing fluid containing hyaluronic acid 1%, glycerin 5%, and Centella asiatica stem cells extract significantly increased skin hydration by 29% and reduced transepidermal water loss at 24 hours compared to baseline and an untreated control site in twenty healthy women.

  Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2017

• The emollient V0034CR significantly reduced TEWL compared to vehicle and vehicle plus glycerol, and significantly increased corneometry scores compared to vehicle and vehicle plus petrolatum in healthy volunteers with dry skin, demonstrating combined barrier function improvement from petrolatum and hydration improvement from glycerol.

  Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2020

• Ten days of treatment with a cream containing 20% glycerin significantly increased skin hydration measured by corneometer values in 17 healthy volunteers compared to a placebo cream, but showed no influence on transepidermal water loss or skin sensitivity to an irritating surfactant.

  International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2001

• Topical application of 0.05% w/w ECa 233 gel reduced erythema index by 0.03 U and improved early crusting and general wound appearance compared to placebo in thirty individuals undergoing facial laser resurfacing.

  Journal of Alternative and Complementary Medicine, 2020

• Topical treatment with 5% vitamin C and 0.1% madecassoside significantly improved clinical scores for wrinkles, suppleness, firmness, roughness, and skin hydration, along with functional and structural remodeling of the elastic fiber network in 20 female volunteers with photoaged skin after 6 months compared to baseline.

  Experimental Dermatology, 2008

• Treatment with an asiaticoside-containing cream applied twice daily for 12 weeks significantly improved periorbital wrinkles in 65% of 27 female volunteers compared to a vehicle control cream.

  International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2008

• Topical application of 0.1% hyaluronic acid formulations of different molecular weights led to significant improvements in skin hydration and elasticity, with low-molecular-weight formulations also significantly reducing wrinkle depth in seventy-six female subjects compared to a vehicle control.

  Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2011

• Topical application of hyaluronic acid in conjunction with free gingival graft significantly reduced donor site postoperative pain until day 7 compared to normal saline, with no significant differences in graft dimensions or patient satisfaction.

  Clinical Oral Investigations, 2022

• Treatment with a hyaluronic acid-containing mouth rinse or topical gel led to significant lesion reduction, pain relief, and normalization of lesion color in adult patients with minor recurrent aphthous stomatitis, with the gel formulation showing an earlier healing onset at 3 days.

  BMC Oral Health, 2019

Ingredients

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Panthenol, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Artemisia Vulgaris Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Propolis Extract, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Betaine, Octanediol, Acrylates C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Allantoin, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Polyquaternium-51, Glyceryl Acrylate Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Phytate, Dextrin, Tocopherol

Behind this fit score

Lovi calculates every fit score from the full ingredient list with brand-independent rules our dermatologists and cosmetic chemists build and review, and personalizes every pick with AI trained on the real results of millions of users. Lovi trains its fit score models on a proprietary dataset built from more than 10,000 expert-labeled products and more than 100,000 simulated examples, following an internally consistent methodology presented at Cosmoprof, AMWC, and Skin of Color Update.