Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster for dry sensitive skin
Azelaic Acid
Salicylic Acid
Licorice Root Extract
Glycerin
AdenosineLow
- AverageDry Skin Fit
- AverageEffectiveness
- HighSafety
A weak match for dry sensitive skin; the serums alongside fit it better.
This fit is calculated for the concerns frequently associated with dry sensitive skin: flakiness, tightness, redness, fine lines, and wrinkles. For scores and recommendations based on your full skin profile, including your 12D face scan results and any goals or preferences you have, please use the Lovi app.
Page built Nov 8, 2026How the Fit score works
Lovi Assistant explains
- Offers moderate exfoliation for your dry and sensitive skin due to salicylic acid, which may be too harsh, though glycerin provides some humectant action.
- The formula includes azelaic acid and licorice root extract to reduce redness and even skin tone, but allantoin and bisabolol offer only general soothing benefits irrelevant to your dry or flaky skin concerns.
- The product is safe for your dry and sensitive skin as it lacks prohibited or harsh ingredients, posing no risk of irritation.
How to apply
- Use this PM routine for your evening skincare. Start using the serum 3 times a week and increase to daily use if your skin feels comfortable.
- Apply the serum after cleansing and toner, but right before your moisturizer. This step locks in deep hydration for dry skin.
- Gently press 2-3 drops of the serum into your skin using your palms. Let it absorb completely for a minute ⏱ before applying your next product.
- Since your skin is sensitive, apply the serum on completely dry skin for better tolerance and less irritation.
- Avoid the sensitive eye area during application. Always do a patch test before your first use to ensure your skin reacts well.
People Say
★4.5Overall rating based on 6.6k+ reviewsMost find the lightweight texture effective for smoothing bumps and clearing breakouts, though some users find the small tube size expensive and the natural scent off-putting.
Highlights
Fades dark spots Often Mentioned
- “acne scars faded”
- “hyperpigmentation is gone”
- “brightened dark spots”
- “marks disappearing quickly”
Reduces redness Often Mentioned
- “calmed redness immediately”
- “soothed my cheeks”
- “less flushed look”
Expensive for size Often Mentioned
- “tiny tube”
- “pricey for amount”
- “runs out fast”
- “wish it was bigger”
Clears acne Sometimes Noted
- “stopped hormonal breakouts”
- “shrunk cystic acne”
- “cleared stubborn pimples”
- “prevented new zits”
Lightweight consistency Sometimes Noted
- “absorbs instantly”
- “layers well”
- “non-greasy finish”
- “lightweight gel-cream”
Smooths texture Sometimes Noted
- “skin feels softer”
- “smoothed bumpy texture”
- “glass skin results”
- “reduced sebaceous filaments”
Unpleasant smell Sometimes Noted
- “smells like grain”
- “earthy scent”
- “weird funk”
- “overpowering smell”
Breakouts/Purging Rarely Noted
- “caused cystic acne”
- “bad purging”
- “broke me out”
- “worsened my skin”
Causes irritation Rarely Noted
- “stung my face”
- “caused dryness”
- “too strong”
- “damaged skin barrier”
Product pilling Rarely Noted
- “pills under makeup”
- “balls up”
- “rolls off skin”
- “doesn't layer well”
Sources: lovi.care, amazon.com, paulaschoice.co.uk, sephora.co.uk, dermstore.com, spacenk.com, and more
Questions and answers
Why is Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster a weak match for dry sensitive skin?
This product is a weak match because its salicylic acid provides moderate exfoliation that may be too harsh for dry sensitive skin, and its soothing ingredients do not target dry or flaky skin concerns. Treatments that fit this skin better need ingredients that hydrate, nourish, and support moisture retention and skin barrier strength.
Which ingredients make this treatment a poor fit for dry sensitive skin?
Salicylic acid makes this a weak match because it offers exfoliation that may be too harsh for dry and sensitive skin. A product of this type needs effective moisturizing ingredients and ceramides that provide excellent hydration and texture improvement without any risk of irritation, ensuring optimal moisture retention and skin barrier support.
What does Azelaic Acid do for dry sensitive skin?
Azelaic acid is generally not an ideal fit for dry sensitive skin because it may cause stinging, irritation, or dryness, though it can help calm redness and soothe inflammation when formulated gently. To work well for dry sensitive skin, a product of this type needs calming plant extracts, rich moisturizers, and barrier-repairing ingredients to keep the skin soft and comfortable.
What does Salicylic Acid do for dry sensitive skin?
Salicylic acid is generally a poor fit for dry, sensitive skin because it is designed to clear out pores by removing excess oil, which can easily leave dry skin irritated. A product of this type needs gentle exfoliating helpers paired with rich, soothing moisturizers and barrier-repairing ingredients to keep dry skin calm and comfortable.
Where does this treatment go in a skincare routine for dry sensitive skin?
This treatment goes in the evening routine once a week to start, as dry sensitive skin needs gentle exfoliation and rich hydration to avoid irritation.
Can I use it with retinol, and in what order?
You can use this treatment with retinol by applying your retinol at night and using this product on alternate nights to avoid making your skin too dry or sensitive. A product of this type for dry and sensitive skin needs deeply hydrating ingredients like ceramides and rich oils to protect the skin barrier while targeting your concerns.
How often should I use this treatment?
Start using this treatment once a week in the evening, as this approach helps your dry and sensitive skin adjust safely. If you tolerate it well and see good results, you may carefully use it more often. A product for this skin type needs rich moisturizers with ceramides and soothing plant oils to keep skin soft and calm.
Can it clog pores, cause breakouts or purging for dry sensitive skin?
This treatment is unlikely to clog pores or cause breakouts for your dry and sensitive skin. Reviewers rarely complain about irritation, and the formula lacks heavy or prohibited ingredients that typically trigger breakouts.
Is this treatment fragrance-free and alcohol-free?
Yes, it has no fragrance and no drying alcohol. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol, which soften the skin.
What the research says
A single application of a moisturizing fluid containing hyaluronic acid 1%, glycerin 5%, and Centella asiatica stem cells extract significantly increased skin hydration by 29% and reduced transepidermal water loss at 24 hours compared to baseline and an untreated control site in twenty healthy women.
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2017Application of 15% azelaic acid gel significantly reduced post-inflammatory erythema and hyperpigmentation, decreased hemoglobin and melanin content, improved quality of life, and contributed to acne improvement in patients with mild to moderate acne compared to placebo.
Dermatology and Therapy, 2024Azelaic acid nanocrystal hydrogel 10% achieved a higher success rate and greater lesion reduction than azelaic acid cream 20% in patients with mild to moderate facial acne.
Pharmaceutics, 2021Topical application of a dermocosmetic containing Myrtus communis extract and azelaic acid reduced acne relapses and helped maintain remission compared to a light moisturizing cream in adult females in the acne maintenance phase over 16 weeks.
Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 2023Topical administration of 20% azelaic acid cream and 5% tranexamic acid solution comparably improved acne-related postinflammatory hyperpigmentation in patients with acne vulgaris, while tranexamic acid demonstrated a significantly better safety profile at week 4.
Journal of Research in Medical Sciences, 2023Cryotherapy with liquid nitrogen achieved a higher cure rate (39%) than salicylic acid (24%) and a wait-and-see approach (16%) for cutaneous warts at 13 weeks in primary care patients.
CMAJ, 2010A moisturizer containing licochalcone A, 1,2-decanediol, L-carnitine, and salicylic acid significantly reduced noninflammatory, inflammatory, and total acne lesion counts compared to a vehicle control in Thai patients during a 12-week maintenance phase.
BioMed Research International, 2020Treatment with 2% supramolecular salicylic acid hydrogel resulted in a regression and markedly improvement rate of 51.01% compared to 43.10% for Adapaline gel in patients with mild to moderate facial acne vulgaris, showing no significant difference in efficacy.
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2024Combining 755 nm alexandrite laser with topical licorice gel significantly reduces terminal hair counts compared to alexandrite laser with placebo in women with idiopathic hirsutism.
Evidence-based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2015Licochalcone A activated Nrf2 signaling, elevated cytoprotective enzymes, increased the reduced-to-oxidized glutathione ratio, and decreased reactive oxygen species in human fibroblasts and neutrophils, while a LicA-rich licorice extract lowered UVA-induced oxidative processes in vivo.
Experimental Dermatology, 2015Bioactive glycyrrhizic acid and oxymatrine ionic liquid self-assembled nanomicelles significantly promoted the transdermal permeation, subcutaneous retention, and anti-photoaging efficacy of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 in cellular and animal models compared to unformulated peptide.
Advanced Science, 2025The emollient V0034CR significantly reduced TEWL compared to vehicle and vehicle plus glycerol, and significantly increased corneometry scores compared to vehicle and vehicle plus petrolatum in healthy volunteers with dry skin, demonstrating combined barrier function improvement from petrolatum and hydration improvement from glycerol.
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2020Ten days of treatment with a cream containing 20% glycerin significantly increased skin hydration measured by corneometer values in 17 healthy volunteers compared to a placebo cream, but showed no influence on transepidermal water loss or skin sensitivity to an irritating surfactant.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2001Niacinamide/glycerin body moisturizers provided better rapid and prolonged improvement of cosmetic xerosis through functional improvement of stratum corneum barrier function compared to no treatment and conventional moisturizers in female subjects.
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2012Topical adenosine treatment significantly increased the anagen hair growth rate and thick hair rate compared to placebo in Japanese women with female pattern hair loss over 12 months.
The Journal of Dermatology, 2008Topical application of a disodium adenosine monophosphate-based formulation reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation while improving hydration, barrier function, skin lifting, and epidermal turnover in female participants.
International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2026Adenosine and cordycepin stimulate the Wnt/beta-catenin signaling pathway through adenosine receptor and PKA activation, promoting cell proliferation, migration, and growth factor secretion in cultured dermal fibroblasts.
International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2021
Why other serums fit dry sensitive skin better
Tocopherol succinate-loaded ethosomal gel increased skin deposition, stability, moisture, and mechanical properties in 13 human subjects compared to a control gel over 12 weeks.
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2022In 50 participants with sensitive skin, a Ceramide NP C15-containing emollient improved skin barrier function with a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss and induced modest changes in skin microbiota compared to the vehicle.
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2026Hydrogels containing vitamin E-loaded nanostructured lipid carriers exhibited better occlusive properties and long-lasting effects, while vitamin E-loaded nanoemulsions performed a faster skin hydration effect and were selected as more attractive for skin application.
Colloids and Surfaces. B, Biointerfaces, 2019
Ingredients
Water, Azelaic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Salicylic Acid, Adenosine, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract Licorice Root Extract, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol
Behind this fit score
Lovi calculates every fit score from the full ingredient list with brand-independent rules our dermatologists and cosmetic chemists build and review, and personalizes every pick with AI trained on the real results of millions of users. Lovi trains its fit score models on a proprietary dataset built from more than 10,000 expert-labeled products and more than 100,000 simulated examples, following an internally consistent methodology presented at Cosmoprof, AMWC, and Skin of Color Update.
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Co-founder, Medical Director
Cosmetic chemist, cosmetologist, aesthetic products developer
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Co-founder, CEO and CTO
PhD in computer science, 3x US patent holder, ex-Google, ex-Yandex
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Dr. Sofía Perea Pérez, MD, MSc
Medical Board
Aesthetic medicine practitioner, MSc in Longevity and Anti-Aging Medicine
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Medical Board
Specialist dermatologist, MBBS, MD, IFAAD
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Medical Board
Cosmetic chemist, SCS, IFSCC member
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Medical Board, Medical Advisor
Dermatology MD
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Elina Nazarenko, MD
Medical Board
Dermatology and diagnostic consultant
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Victoria Derkova, MS
Medical Board
Cosmetic chemist, cosmetic development technologist
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