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Paula's Choice CALM Ultra-Gentle Cleanser for oily acne-prone skin

Paula's Choice CALM Ultra-Gentle Cleanser
  • Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
  • Glycerin
  • Caprylic Capric Triglyceride
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine
  • Hydroxyacetophenone

Average

  • AverageOily Skin Fit
  • AverageEffectiveness
  • Low RiskSafety

Works for oily acne-prone skin; other cleansers fit it better.

This fit is calculated for the concerns frequently associated with oily acne-prone skin: shine, breakouts, blemishes, and enlarged pores. For scores and recommendations based on your full skin profile, including your 12D face scan results and any goals or preferences you have, please use the Lovi app.

Page built Nov 8, 2026How the Fit score works

Lovi Assistant explains

  • Offers moderate cleansing for your oily skin, as Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine effectively remove impurities without harshness, though it lacks specific ingredients like salicylic acid to target your acne and breakouts.
  • Glycerin provides some humectant action to support your oily skin, but the formula doesn't offer strong oil control for your additional goal of managing oiliness.
  • The product is generally safe for your skin, with a low risk of irritation due to the absence of harsh ingredients.

How to apply

  • Use this cleanser as part of your AM and PM routine. Start using it daily to help clear your breakouts.
  • Apply this cleanser as the first step in the morning and right after your pre-cleanser in the evening. Follow it with your toner and moisturizer.
  • Gently massage a small amount of the cleanser onto your face using circular motions. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water and pat dry.
  • Apply the cleanser on slightly damp skin to help clean deeply and remove excess oil. This works best for oily skin types.
  • Avoid the sensitive eye area during application. Do a patch test before your first use.

People Say

★4.3Overall rating based on 100+ reviews

A notable portion of reviewers find it too gentle for removing heavy makeup or sunscreen on its own, often requiring a double cleanse, and some dislike the texture of the reformulated version.

Highlights

  • Extremely gentle Mostly Mentioned
    • “leaves skin soft and comfortable”
    • “doesn't dry out skin”
    • “feels like moisturizer”
    • “perfect for sensitive skin”
  • Calms redness Often Mentioned
    • “redness was considerably better”
    • “skin is so calm”
  • Poor makeup removal Often Mentioned
    • “doesn't remove stubborn mascara”
    • “needs double cleanse”
    • “struggles with heavy makeup”
    • “not deep cleaning enough”
  • Pleasant texture Sometimes Noted
    • “creamy gel texture”
    • “silky-smooth finish”
    • “cushiony cleanser”
    • “glides on easily”
  • Repairs skin barrier Sometimes Noted
    • “repaired my skin barrier”
    • “stopped the flaking”
    • “no stinging or burning”
    • “great for damaged barrier”
  • Odd texture/clumping Sometimes Noted
    • “clumps at the opening”
    • “congeals into jelly”
    • “feels a bit slimy”
    • “texture is odd”
  • Not for oily skin Rarely Noted
    • “not deep cleaning for oily skin”
    • “didn't feel clean enough”
    • “too gentle for my oiliness”
  • Unpleasant scent Rarely Noted
    • “smells like cooking oil”
    • “odd odor”
    • “canola-esque scent”
    • “unpleasant smell”

Sources: lovi.care, paulaschoice.co.uk, paulaschoice.com.au, cultbeauty.co.uk, skinsort.com, spacenk.com, and more

Questions and answers

How well does Paula's Choice CALM Ultra-Gentle Cleanser work for oily acne-prone skin?

Paula's Choice CALM Ultra-Gentle Cleanser works moderately well for oily acne-prone skin, as it gently removes impurities with minimal irritation risk, though it lacks targeted ingredients like salicylic acid for breakouts and strong oil control. A cleanser for this skin type needs soothing and effective ingredients like niacinamide, ceramides, probiotics, or salicylic acid to balance oil production and clear blemishes without causing excess dryness.

Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2017

Which ingredients make this cleanser a good fit for oily acne-prone skin?

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine make this cleanser a good fit because they wash away dirt without being harsh on your oily skin. Glycerin also helps by adding light moisture to support your skin. A cleanser of this type needs ingredients like salicylic acid, niacinamide, and ceramides to target breakouts and manage oiliness effectively.

Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2017

What does Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate do for oily acne-prone skin?

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate is a mild cleanser ingredient that helps wash away excess oil and dirt without stripping your skin barrier or causing dryness. Because it has gentle interactions with your skin, it is less likely to cause irritation while keeping your face feeling soft and clean.

Dermatologic Therapy, 2004Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2025

What does Glycerin do for oily acne-prone skin?

Glycerin helps keep oily acne-prone skin hydrated without feeling heavy. It draws moisture into the skin while supporting the skin barrier so it stays soft and balanced.

The British Journal of Dermatology, 2008Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2017

Where does this cleanser go in a skincare routine for oily acne-prone skin?

This cleanser fits into your morning and evening routine as the first cleansing step, and it is safe and gentle for daily use. However, because this product does not target breakouts or provide strong oil control, oily acne-prone skin needs a cleanser that includes ingredients like salicylic acid and oil-controlling agents.

The Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2022

Can I use this cleanser with retinol, and in what order?

You can use this cleanser with retinol as part of your routine, applying the cleanser first to gently wash your face before putting on your retinol treatment. This cleanser is unlikely to cause extra irritation, though to truly care for oily acne-prone skin, a cleanser of this type needs acne-fighting ingredients like salicylic acid and strong oil control.

Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2023

How often should I use this cleanser?

You can use this cleanser twice a day as part of your morning and evening routine. It gently washes away dirt and oil without feeling harsh, though oily acne-prone skin needs cleansers with extra ingredients like salicylic acid and strong oil control to properly manage breakouts.

Can this cleanser clog pores, cause breakouts or purging for oily acne-prone skin?

This cleanser is unlikely to clog pores or cause breakouts for your oily acne-prone skin, as it has a very low risk of irritation and harshness. However, because it lacks targeted ingredients like salicylic acid and strong oil control, an oily acne-prone skin type needs a cleanser with blemish-fighting ingredients and oil-balancing agents.

Can I use this cleanser around the eyes or on my body?

Yes, you can use this gentle cleanser around the eyes and on your body since it has a low risk of irritation and uses well-tolerated cleansers. This product type works safely on delicate areas like the eyelids and various body regions, though for oily acne-prone skin it needs ingredients like salicylic acid to target breakouts and stronger oil control.

Surgical and Radiologic Anatomy, 2002

Is this cleanser fragrance-free and alcohol-free?

Yes, it has no fragrance and no drying alcohol.

What the research says

  • A single application of a moisturizing fluid containing hyaluronic acid 1%, glycerin 5%, and Centella asiatica stem cells extract significantly increased skin hydration by 29% and reduced transepidermal water loss at 24 hours compared to baseline and an untreated control site in twenty healthy women.

    Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2017
  • The emollient V0034CR significantly reduced TEWL compared to vehicle and vehicle plus glycerol, and significantly increased corneometry scores compared to vehicle and vehicle plus petrolatum in healthy volunteers with dry skin, demonstrating combined barrier function improvement from petrolatum and hydration improvement from glycerol.

    Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2020
  • Ten days of treatment with a cream containing 20% glycerin significantly increased skin hydration measured by corneometer values in 17 healthy volunteers compared to a placebo cream, but showed no influence on transepidermal water loss or skin sensitivity to an irritating surfactant.

    International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2001
  • Niacinamide/glycerin body moisturizers provided better rapid and prolonged improvement of cosmetic xerosis through functional improvement of stratum corneum barrier function compared to no treatment and conventional moisturizers in female subjects.

    Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2012
  • Topical application of an emollient emulsion containing 15.0% caprylic/capric triglyceride doubled the amount of urocanic acid isomers and increased skin hydration with reduced transepidermal water loss in healthy subjects, though it did not prevent ultraviolet-induced urocanic acid isomerization.

    Life, 2023
  • The cytotoxic effect of sodium lauryl sulphate on normal human keratinocytes was significantly decreased when combined with cocamidopropyl betaine, Tween 20, and Tween 80 at concentrations well below the critical micelle concentration.

    Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, 2003

Why other cleansers fit oily acne-prone skin better

  • A panthenol-enriched mask improved skin hydration, regulated sebum, and reduced redness and TEWL across dry sensitive, oily sensitive, and oily acne skin subgroups with excellent tolerance and no adverse reactions.

    Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2024
  • Topical application of Lactobacillus plantarum-GMNL6 enhanced collagen synthesis and SPTSSA gene expression while reducing melanin synthesis, Staphylococcus aureus biofilm, and Cutibacterium acnes proliferation, leading to clinical improvements in skin moisture, color, spots, wrinkles, UV spots, and porphyrins in human volunteers.

    International Journal of Medical Sciences, 2021
  • A botanical face cleanser with hops and willow bark extract continuously reduced skin sebum levels without reactive seborrhea after treatment in 21 healthy volunteers compared to a sodium laureth sulfate cleanser, with neither cleanser causing skin irritation.

    Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2019

Ingredients

Water, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Glycerin, Caprylic Capric Triglyceride, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate, Cellulose Gum, Coco-Caprylate Caprate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Inulin, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Phytate, Cellulose, Fructose, Glucose, Phenoxyethanol

Behind this fit score

Lovi calculates every fit score from the full ingredient list with brand-independent rules our dermatologists and cosmetic chemists build and review, and personalizes every pick with AI trained on the real results of millions of users. Lovi trains its fit score models on a proprietary dataset built from more than 10,000 expert-labeled products and more than 100,000 simulated examples, following an internally consistent methodology presented at Cosmoprof, AMWC, and Skin of Color Update.

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