Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster for dry skin
Azelaic Acid
Salicylic Acid
Licorice Root Extract
Glycerin
AdenosineLow
- LowDry Skin Fit
- AverageEffectiveness
- HighSafety
A weak match for dry skin; the serums alongside fit it better.
- Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2017
- Medicina Oral, Patologia Oral Y Cirugia Bucal, 2016
This fit is calculated for the concerns frequently associated with dry skin: flakiness, tightness, dehydration, fine lines, and wrinkles. For scores and recommendations based on your full skin profile, including your 12D face scan results and any goals or preferences you have, please use the Lovi app.
Page built Nov 8, 2026How the Fit score works
Lovi Assistant explains
- Offers moderate exfoliation and pore decongestion for your dry skin due to azelaic acid and salicylic acid, which may be too drying for your skin type, though glycerin offers some humectant action.
- The formula provides general skincare benefits like hydration and soothing for dry or flaky skin, with ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol contributing to a calmer complexion.
- The safety profile is good, with no risks of irritation for your dry skin due to the absence of harsh ingredients and the presence of soothing components.
How to apply
- Apply this serum PM, starting 3×/week and working up to daily use as your skin adjusts.
- Place the serum after cleansing and toner, but right before your moisturizer.
- Gently press 2-3 drops of the serum into your skin and let it absorb for a minute.
- Apply the serum on slightly damp skin to help lock in extra moisture.
- Avoid the eye area and do a patch test before your first use.
People Say
★4.5Overall rating based on 6.6k+ reviewsMost find the lightweight texture effective for smoothing bumps and clearing breakouts, though some users find the small tube size expensive and the natural scent off-putting.
Highlights
Fades dark spots Often Mentioned
- “acne scars faded”
- “hyperpigmentation is gone”
- “brightened dark spots”
- “marks disappearing quickly”
Reduces redness Often Mentioned
- “calmed redness immediately”
- “soothed my cheeks”
- “less flushed look”
Expensive for size Often Mentioned
- “tiny tube”
- “pricey for amount”
- “runs out fast”
- “wish it was bigger”
Clears acne Sometimes Noted
- “stopped hormonal breakouts”
- “shrunk cystic acne”
- “cleared stubborn pimples”
- “prevented new zits”
Lightweight consistency Sometimes Noted
- “absorbs instantly”
- “layers well”
- “non-greasy finish”
- “lightweight gel-cream”
Smooths texture Sometimes Noted
- “skin feels softer”
- “smoothed bumpy texture”
- “glass skin results”
- “reduced sebaceous filaments”
Unpleasant smell Sometimes Noted
- “smells like grain”
- “earthy scent”
- “weird funk”
- “overpowering smell”
Breakouts/Purging Rarely Noted
- “caused cystic acne”
- “bad purging”
- “broke me out”
- “worsened my skin”
Causes irritation Rarely Noted
- “stung my face”
- “caused dryness”
- “too strong”
- “damaged skin barrier”
Product pilling Rarely Noted
- “pills under makeup”
- “balls up”
- “rolls off skin”
- “doesn't layer well”
Sources: lovi.care, amazon.com, paulaschoice.co.uk, sephora.co.uk, dermstore.com, spacenk.com, and more
Questions and answers
Why is Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster a weak match for dry skin?
This treatment is a weak match because it offers moderate exfoliation and pore decongestion that may be too drying for your skin type. Treatment products for dry skin need rich, highly effective hydrating and soothing ingredients that provide significant moisture and support the skin barrier without any risk of irritation.
Which ingredients make this treatment a poor fit for dry skin?
The azelaic acid and salicylic acid in this treatment make it a weak match for your dry skin because they provide exfoliating and pore-clearing effects that may be too drying. While it includes glycerin for hydration and soothing ingredients like allantoin and bisabolol to help keep your skin calm, a product of this type needs rich hydrating and skin barrier-supporting ingredients such as ceramides, niacinamide, and peptides to properly nourish dry skin.
What does Salicylic Acid do for dry skin?
Salicylic acid is generally not a good fit for dry skin, as it is meant to clear out pores and remove dead skin rather than hydrate. Because dry skin needs soothing and moisture rather than exfoliation, a product for dry skin needs nourishing ingredients like urea to lock in moisture and keep the skin soft.
Where does this treatment go in a skincare routine for dry skin?
This treatment goes in the evening routine after cleansing and before your moisturizer. For dry skin, this product type needs soothing ingredients like glycerin, allantoin, and bisabolol to help keep the skin calm and hydrated while minimizing dryness.
Can I use this treatment with retinol, and in what order?
You can use this treatment in your evening routine, but apply it on a different night than your retinol to help prevent excessive dryness on your dry skin. When using active treatments like this, your dry skin needs gentle, deeply hydrating ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and rich plant oils to keep the skin barrier soft and comfortable.
How often should I use this treatment?
Start by using this treatment just once a week in the evening, as acids and exfoliants can be too drying for dry skin. If your skin feels comfortable and tolerates it well, you can carefully use it more often. To work well for dry skin, a treatment of this type needs rich moisturizing ingredients like glycerin and soothing plant extracts to keep the skin soft and calm.
Can this treatment clog pores, cause breakouts or purging for dry skin?
This treatment is unlikely to cause breakouts or clog pores on dry skin, and the salicylic acid helps clear pores while the glycerin keeps skin hydrated. A product for this dry skin needs gentle, hydrating ingredients and rich moisture boosters to keep your face soft and smooth without feeling dry.
Is this treatment fragrance-free and alcohol-free?
Yes, it has no fragrance and no drying alcohol. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol, which soften the skin.
What the research says
A single application of a moisturizing fluid containing hyaluronic acid 1%, glycerin 5%, and Centella asiatica stem cells extract significantly increased skin hydration by 29% and reduced transepidermal water loss at 24 hours compared to baseline and an untreated control site in twenty healthy women.
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2017Topical gel containing chitosan, 0.2% chlorhexidine, allantoin and dexpanthenol did not improve postoperative comfort regarding swelling and pain, but improved the wound's aesthetic appearance following impacted lower third molar extraction compared to no gel.
Medicina Oral, Patologia Oral Y Cirugia Bucal, 2016Azelaic acid nanocrystal hydrogel 10% achieved a higher success rate and greater lesion reduction than azelaic acid cream 20% in patients with mild to moderate facial acne.
Pharmaceutics, 2021Application of 15% azelaic acid gel significantly reduced post-inflammatory erythema and hyperpigmentation, decreased hemoglobin and melanin content, improved quality of life, and contributed to acne improvement in patients with mild to moderate acne compared to placebo.
Dermatology and Therapy, 2024Topical application of a dermocosmetic containing Myrtus communis extract and azelaic acid reduced acne relapses and helped maintain remission compared to a light moisturizing cream in adult females in the acne maintenance phase over 16 weeks.
Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 2023Cryotherapy with liquid nitrogen achieved a higher cure rate (39%) than salicylic acid (24%) and a wait-and-see approach (16%) for cutaneous warts at 13 weeks in primary care patients.
CMAJ, 2010A moisturizer containing licochalcone A, 1,2-decanediol, L-carnitine, and salicylic acid significantly reduced noninflammatory, inflammatory, and total acne lesion counts compared to a vehicle control in Thai patients during a 12-week maintenance phase.
BioMed Research International, 2020Treatment with 2% supramolecular salicylic acid hydrogel resulted in a regression and markedly improvement rate of 51.01% compared to 43.10% for Adapaline gel in patients with mild to moderate facial acne vulgaris, showing no significant difference in efficacy.
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2024Combining 755 nm alexandrite laser with topical licorice gel significantly reduces terminal hair counts compared to alexandrite laser with placebo in women with idiopathic hirsutism.
Evidence-based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2015Licochalcone A activated Nrf2 signaling, elevated cytoprotective enzymes, increased the reduced-to-oxidized glutathione ratio, and decreased reactive oxygen species in human fibroblasts and neutrophils, while a LicA-rich licorice extract lowered UVA-induced oxidative processes in vivo.
Experimental Dermatology, 2015Bioactive glycyrrhizic acid and oxymatrine ionic liquid self-assembled nanomicelles significantly promoted the transdermal permeation, subcutaneous retention, and anti-photoaging efficacy of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 in cellular and animal models compared to unformulated peptide.
Advanced Science, 2025The emollient V0034CR significantly reduced TEWL compared to vehicle and vehicle plus glycerol, and significantly increased corneometry scores compared to vehicle and vehicle plus petrolatum in healthy volunteers with dry skin, demonstrating combined barrier function improvement from petrolatum and hydration improvement from glycerol.
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2020Ten days of treatment with a cream containing 20% glycerin significantly increased skin hydration measured by corneometer values in 17 healthy volunteers compared to a placebo cream, but showed no influence on transepidermal water loss or skin sensitivity to an irritating surfactant.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2001Niacinamide/glycerin body moisturizers provided better rapid and prolonged improvement of cosmetic xerosis through functional improvement of stratum corneum barrier function compared to no treatment and conventional moisturizers in female subjects.
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2012Topical adenosine treatment significantly increased the anagen hair growth rate and thick hair rate compared to placebo in Japanese women with female pattern hair loss over 12 months.
The Journal of Dermatology, 2008Topical application of a disodium adenosine monophosphate-based formulation reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation while improving hydration, barrier function, skin lifting, and epidermal turnover in female participants.
International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2026Adenosine and cordycepin stimulate the Wnt/beta-catenin signaling pathway through adenosine receptor and PKA activation, promoting cell proliferation, migration, and growth factor secretion in cultured dermal fibroblasts.
International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2021
Ingredients
Water, Azelaic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Salicylic Acid, Adenosine, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract Licorice Root Extract, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol
Behind this fit score
Lovi calculates every fit score from the full ingredient list with brand-independent rules our dermatologists and cosmetic chemists build and review, and personalizes every pick with AI trained on the real results of millions of users. Lovi trains its fit score models on a proprietary dataset built from more than 10,000 expert-labeled products and more than 100,000 simulated examples, following an internally consistent methodology presented at Cosmoprof, AMWC, and Skin of Color Update.
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Co-founder, Medical Director
Cosmetic chemist, cosmetologist, aesthetic products developer
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Co-founder, CEO and CTO
PhD in computer science, 3x US patent holder, ex-Google, ex-Yandex
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Dr. Sofía Perea Pérez, MD, MSc
Medical Board
Aesthetic medicine practitioner, MSc in Longevity and Anti-Aging Medicine
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Medical Board
Specialist dermatologist, MBBS, MD, IFAAD
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Medical Board
Cosmetic chemist, SCS, IFSCC member
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Medical Board, Medical Advisor
Dermatology MD
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Elina Nazarenko, MD
Medical Board
Dermatology and diagnostic consultant
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Victoria Derkova, MS
Medical Board
Cosmetic chemist, cosmetic development technologist
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