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Allies of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum for oily skin

Rated by Lovi · Unbiased, science-based skincare AI trained on real user outcomes

Allies of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum

Average

  • AverageOily Skin Fit
  • AverageEffectiveness
  • Low RiskSafety

Works for oily skin; other serums fit it better.

This fit is calculated for the concerns frequently associated with oily skin: shine, enlarged pores, blackheads, and blemishes. For scores and recommendations based on your full skin profile, including your 12D face scan results and any goals or preferences you have, please use the Lovi app.

Page built Nov 8, 2026How the Fit score works

Lovi Assistant explains

  • Offers moderate suitability for oily skin as Glycerin and Propanediol provide hydration, but it lacks sufficient seboregulating ingredients to fully address your oily shine concerns.
  • The presence of 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ergothioneine offers excellent brightening and firming benefits, evening your skin tone and improving elasticity.
  • The product is generally safe for your oily skin, with a low risk of irritation from 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid.

How to apply

  • Use this serum in your PM routine. Start by applying it 3 times a week and build up to daily use if your skin tolerates it well.
  • Apply the serum after cleansing and toning, but right before your moisturizer for the best results.
  • Gently press 2-3 drops of the serum into your skin. Let it absorb ⏱ for a minute before applying the next product.
  • Apply the serum on clean and dry skin since your skin is not sensitive and you want to target oily shine. This helps control excess oil throughout the night.
  • Avoid the delicate eye area and do a patch test before using the serum for the very first time.

People Say

★4.5Overall rating based on 200+ reviews

Users report this serum provides a noticeable glow and smoother skin texture, effectively brightening dullness and fading dark spots. Its waterless formula can feel sticky or oily if not applied to damp skin as instructed.

Highlights

  • Visible brightening and glow Mostly Mentioned
    • “My face was just glowing”
    • “Leaves a radiance that is amazing”
    • “Fades imperfections and boosts collagen”
  • Smoother skin texture Often Mentioned
    • “Leaves my skin feeling incredibly soft”
    • “Skin feels brighter and firmer”
    • “Improvement in my skin's texture”
  • Sticky or thick texture Often Mentioned
    • “Too sticky for my preference”
    • “Texture is gooey and thick”
    • “Shocked by how thick it is”
  • Non-irritating for many Sometimes Noted
    • “No irritation, just glowing results”
    • “Rich & non-irritating”
    • “Did not irritate my skin”
  • Stable, potent formula Sometimes Noted
    • “Doesn't oxidize”
    • “Potent form of Vitamin C”
    • “Love the protective packaging”
  • Application difficulty Sometimes Noted
    • “Tricky to apply”
    • “Heats up in your hand”
    • “Hard to blend into the skin”
  • High price point Sometimes Noted
    • “Wish it was cheaper”
    • “Not sure it's worth the bucks”
    • “Expensive but effective”
  • Unpleasant smell Sometimes Noted
    • “Smell is just bad”
    • “Has a very mild but strange smell”
    • “Slightly funky smell”
  • Sensitization or reactions Rarely Noted
    • “Face started to swell”
    • “Cheeks were red and burning”
    • “Too strong for my skin”

Sources: lovi.care, dermstore.com, sephora.sg, cultbeauty.com, spacenk.com, reddit.com, and more

Questions and answers

How well does Allies of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum work for oily skin?

This serum works moderately well for oily skin because glycerin and propanediol provide hydration, but it lacks enough ingredients to control oily shine. While it safely brightens and firms your skin with a low risk of irritation, a product for this skin type needs ingredients like niacinamide, zinc PCA, or ferulic acid to manage excess oil and pores while keeping skin balanced.

International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2024Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2017

Which ingredients make this serum a good fit for oily skin?

This serum offers moderate suitability for oily skin because Glycerin and Propanediol provide hydration, and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ergothioneine help brighten and firm. However, it lacks sufficient oil-controlling ingredients like niacinamide and zinc PCA to fully address shiny skin.

International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2024Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2017

What does Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid do for oily skin?

Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid helps protect oily skin from sun damage and calm irritation when used in your routine. It provides reliable antioxidant support and helps keep your skin looking clear and balanced.

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2012International Journal of Pharmaceutics: X, 2019

What does Glutathione do for oily skin?

Glutathione helps protect oily skin from everyday damage and oxidative stress. It may also help keep your skin looking bright and smooth.

Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 2024

Where does this serum go in a skincare routine for oily skin?

This treatment serum goes in the evening routine after cleansing and toning, and before moisturizing. Putting treatments in the evening helps keep things simple and offers extra safety around sun exposure.

Can I use this serum with retinol, and in what order?

This serum works for oily skin, though other products fit it better. To use it with retinol, apply your retinol in your evening routine and keep this treatment separate to avoid irritation, or use them on alternate nights.

How often should I use this serum?

This serum works well in your evening routine, and some people can also use it in the morning or twice a day. To better fit oily skin, a product of this type needs ingredients that help balance oil and reduce shine while keeping skin hydrated.

Can this serum clog pores, cause breakouts or purging for oily skin?

This serum is unlikely to clog pores or cause breakouts for oily skin, as it has a generally safe profile and a low risk of irritation. However, because it lacks sufficient shine-controlling ingredients, an oily skin type needs a formula with targeted seboregulating components to fully manage excess oil.

Is this serum fragrance-free and alcohol-free?

Yes, it has no fragrance and no drying alcohol.

What the research says

  • Topical application of 1,3-propanediol at various concentrations, alone or combined with butylene glycol and/or glycerol, increased skin hydration and reduced trans epidermal water loss in 30 healthy female subjects over an 8-hour period, with the 15% concentration and the addition of glycerol providing greater benefits.

    International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2024

  • A single application of a moisturizing fluid containing hyaluronic acid 1%, glycerin 5%, and Centella asiatica stem cells extract significantly increased skin hydration by 29% and reduced transepidermal water loss at 24 hours compared to baseline and an untreated control site in twenty healthy women.

    Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2017

  • A targeted skincare regimen containing active ingredients such as rhodophyceae extract, ergothioneine, and L-carnosine significantly reduced transepidermal water loss by 24.09%, improved skin elasticity, and decreased redness, dryness, and desquamation in thirty-five female Chinese participants over 4 weeks following advanced optimal pulse technology treatment.

    International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2025

  • A triple combination of ergothioneine, collagen peptides, and sodium hyaluronate attenuated UV-induced skin damage ex vivo and improved facial skin hydration, elasticity, barrier function, and wrinkles in Chinese women.

    Frontiers in Nutrition, 2026

  • Dissolving microneedles loaded with 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid and acetyl hexapeptide-8 achieved higher cumulative transdermal delivery than aqueous solutions and significantly reduced photoaging signs while restoring oxidative balance in a UV/D-galactose-induced mouse model.

    International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2026

  • Topical application of 5% vitamin C cream significantly improved global clinical scores, increased skin microrelief density, and induced elastic tissue repair in photoaged skin compared to excipient control in healthy female volunteers.

    Experimental Dermatology, 2003

  • Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside gel significantly reduced gingival melanin pigmentation after 4 weeks compared to placebo in 73 subjects with symmetric pigmentation.

    Journal of Periodontology, 2009

  • Topical application of VC-IP cream twice daily for 8 weeks reduces periorbital wrinkles in female subjects compared to a placebo cream.

    Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2022

  • Glutathione amino acid precursors effectively increase cellular glutathione levels, reducing oxidative stress, ATP depletion, and DNA damage in human keratinocytes, clinical subjects, and ex vivo skin compared to controls.

    Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 2024

  • Topical oxidized glutathione significantly decreases the skin melanin index and improves moisture content, smoothness, wrinkle formation, and elasticity compared to placebo in healthy women.

    Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2014

  • Topical glutathione improves hyperpigmentation, reduces ultraviolet-induced erythema and wrinkles, decreases transepidermal water loss, and enhances antioxidant capacity.

    The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2025

  • Topical N-acetylcysteine plus doxycycline achieved significantly greater improvements in total lesion count, inflammatory lesion count, IGA, GAGS, and CADI scores compared to benzoyl peroxide plus doxycycline in 40 patients with moderate acne vulgaris.

    Dermatology Practical & Conceptual, 2026

  • Topical application of alpha-tocopherol, l-ascorbic acid, alpha-lipoic acid, glutathione ethylester, and N-acetylcysteine decreased UVB-radiation-induced cell death, apoptosis, and lipid peroxidation in ex vivo pig skin explants compared to untreated controls.

    Radiation Research, 2003

  • Topical vitamin C, vitamin E, and acetylcysteine showed similar effects on the healing of experimentally created corneal wounds in rabbits, with no statistically significant differences compared to each other.

    Indian Journal of Ophthalmology, 2020

  • Supplementation of a broad-spectrum sunscreen with Spirulina and dimethylmethoxy chromanol significantly improved skin pigmentation, reduced collagen degradation, and enhanced net elasticity in 44 healthy subjects after 84 days compared to sunscreen alone.

    European Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 2017

Why other serums fit oily skin better

  • A panthenol-enriched mask improved skin hydration, regulated sebum, and reduced redness and TEWL across dry sensitive, oily sensitive, and oily acne skin subgroups with excellent tolerance and no adverse reactions.

    Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2024

  • Niacinamide and ferulic acid incorporated in a stable multiple emulsion successfully reduced melanin, sebum, and skin erythema while improving skin elasticity and hydration in human skin compared to a placebo.

    BioMed Research International, 2022

Ingredients

Propanediol, Glycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Helianthus Annuus Wax Seed, Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate, Ethoxydiglycol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Water, Caprylyl Glycol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Callus Culture Extract, Glutathione, Acetyl Cysteine, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Ergothioneine, Tocopherol, Gluconolactone, Leuconostoc Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Xanthan Gum, Silica, Sodium Benzoate, Calcium Gluconate, Phenoxyethanol

Behind this fit score

Lovi calculates every fit score from the full ingredient list with brand-independent rules our dermatologists and cosmetic chemists build and review, and personalizes every pick with AI trained on the real results of millions of users. Lovi trains its fit score models on a proprietary dataset built from more than 10,000 expert-labeled products and more than 100,000 simulated examples, following an internally consistent methodology presented at Cosmoprof, AMWC, and Skin of Color Update.

  • Nadia Kapleva, MS

    Nadia Kapleva, MS

    Co-founder, Medical Director

    Cosmetic chemist, cosmetologist, aesthetic products developer

  • Alexey Shagraev, PhD

    Alexey Shagraev, PhD

    Co-founder, CEO and CTO

    PhD in computer science, 3x US patent holder, ex-Google, ex-Yandex

  • Dr. Sofía Perea Pérez, MD, MSc

    Dr. Sofía Perea Pérez, MD, MSc

    Medical Board

    Aesthetic medicine practitioner, MSc in Longevity and Anti-Aging Medicine

  • Aishani Shah, MD

    Aishani Shah, MD

    Medical Board

    Specialist dermatologist, MBBS, MD, IFAAD

  • Asya Zubkova, MS

    Asya Zubkova, MS

    Medical Board

    Cosmetic chemist, SCS, IFSCC member

  • Hanna Kurets, MD

    Hanna Kurets, MD

    Medical Board, Medical Advisor

    Dermatology MD

  • Elina Nazarenko, MD

    Elina Nazarenko, MD

    Medical Board

    Dermatology and diagnostic consultant

  • Victoria Derkova, MS

    Victoria Derkova, MS

    Medical Board

    Cosmetic chemist, cosmetic development technologist

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How does it fit your skin?

Scan your face, then any product: Lovi shows how well it fits you and what fits even better.

QR code: get the Lovi app
Download on theApp Store Get it onGoogle Play