Dermalogica ultracalming™ cleanser for skin with dark spots
Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Glycerin
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Citric Acid
Average
- AverageNormal Skin Fit
- AverageEffectiveness
- HighSafety
Works for skin with dark spots; other cleansers fit it better.
This fit is calculated for the concerns frequently associated with dark spots: hyperpigmentation, sun spots, and uneven skin tone. For scores and recommendations based on your full skin profile, including your 12D face scan results and any goals or preferences you have, please use the Lovi app.
Page built Nov 8, 2026How the Fit score works
Lovi Assistant explains
- Offers moderate cleansing for your normal skin, as Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine gently lift impurities, though it lacks specialized ingredients to address your main goal of pigmentation.
- Glycerin provides humectant action suitable for normal skin, but the formula could benefit from more emollient ingredients to enhance overall skin hydration.
- The product is safe for your normal skin, with no risks of irritation due to the absence of harsh or prohibited ingredients.
How to apply
- You can use this cleanser AM and PM every single day. Start slowly 3 times a week and move to daily use if your skin likes it.
- Apply this cleanser as the first step in your morning routine or the second step in your evening routine. Follow it with toner and moisturizer.
- Massage a small amount of cleanser gently onto your face using circular motions. Rinse well with lukewarm water and pat dry.
- For the best results, apply your cleanser directly to wet skin to help wash away dirt. Make sure your face is clean before you begin.
- Avoid getting the cleanser in your eyes. Always do a quick patch test before using the product for the very first time.
People Say
★4.6Overall rating based on 600+ reviewsUsers consistently report that it effectively reduces redness and fortifies the skin barrier, leaving it hydrated. Many note that it is too mild to remove heavy makeup or sunscreen on its own, often requiring a double-cleanse routine.
Highlights
Extremely gentle Mostly Mentioned
- “doesn't sting my raw skin”
- “soothing on contact”
- “best for reactive skin”
Non-stripping Often Mentioned
- “no squeaky clean feeling”
- “leaves skin dewy”
- “doesn't dry me out”
- “feels like a moisturizer”
Poor makeup removal Often Mentioned
- “doesn't take off mascara”
- “need to use oil first”
- “leaves makeup residue”
- “too gentle for full glam”
Pleasant scent Sometimes Noted
- “smells like lavender and cucumber”
- “relaxing spa scent”
- “light herbal smell”
Safe for eyes Sometimes Noted
- “doesn't burn my eyes”
- “gentle enough for eye area”
- “use it over eyelids safely”
High price point Sometimes Noted
- “very pricey for a cleanser”
- “wish it was cheaper”
- “expensive but worth it”
Packaging issues Rarely Noted
- “pump arrived broken”
- “pump stopped working halfway”
- “hard to get product out”
Texture preference Rarely Noted
- “feels like lotion”
- “doesn't feel like it cleans”
- “leaves a film”
Sources: lovi.care, sephora.com, dermstore.com, lovelyskin.com, ulta.com, reddit.com, and more
Questions and answers
How well does Dermalogica UltraCalming Cleanser work for skin with dark spots?
Dermalogica UltraCalming Cleanser works moderately well for skin with dark spots, as it gently lifts impurities without any risk of irritation, but it lacks specialized ingredients to fade dark spots. A cleanser for this skin needs high-quality ingredients like niacinamide and ceramides to address pigmentation concerns, along with a balanced combination of hydrating and barrier-repairing ingredients.
Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2007Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2017
Which ingredients make this cleanser a good fit for skin with dark spots?
Glycerin helps keep the skin hydrated while gentle cleansers lift impurities, though this product lacks targeted ingredients for dark spots. To better address dark spots and maintain skin health, a cleanser of this type needs high-quality ingredients like niacinamide and ceramides.
What does Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate do for skin with dark spots?
Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate is a gentle cleanser that washes away dirt and oil without fading dark spots or changing skin pigment. To help clear dark spots, a routine needs brightening ingredients like vitamin C or exfoliating acids.
What does Cocamidopropyl Betaine do for skin with dark spots?
Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a cleansing agent rather than an active ingredient that targets dark spots, so it does not directly fade them. Skin with dark spots needs cleansers containing targeted brightening or exfoliating ingredients to help even out skin tone.
Where does this cleanser go in a skincare routine for skin with dark spots?
This cleanser goes in your morning and evening routine as the first cleansing step, and it is safe and gentle for your skin. Because it lacks specialized ingredients to fade dark spots, this skin needs a cleanser that includes brightening ingredients and extra hydrating components.
Can I use this cleanser with retinol, and in what order?
You can use this cleanser with retinol by applying the cleanser first to gently lift impurities before your retinol step, as the formula is safe and unlikely to cause irritation. To help this skin with dark spots, a product of this type needs specialized ingredients to address pigmentation along with softening ingredients to boost hydration.
How often should I use this cleanser?
You can use this cleanser daily as part of your morning and evening routine to gently lift impurities. A consistent routine using a mild cleanser helps improve overall skin feel.
Can this cleanser clog pores, cause breakouts or purging for skin with dark spots?
This cleanser is unlikely to clog pores or cause breakouts on your skin with dark spots, as it uses gentle cleansers that do not disrupt the skin barrier. However, because it lacks specialized ingredients for dark spots and rich softening ingredients, this skin needs targeted brightening ingredients and extra hydrating components to see better results.
Can I use this cleanser around the eyes or on my body?
You can use this cleanser on the body and around the eyes, as its gentle ingredients are safe and unlikely to cause irritation.
Is this cleanser fragrance-free and alcohol-free?
It has no drying alcohol and contains fragrance (parfum, limonene, linalool, and citral).
What the research says
A single application of a moisturizing fluid containing hyaluronic acid 1%, glycerin 5%, and Centella asiatica stem cells extract significantly increased skin hydration by 29% and reduced transepidermal water loss at 24 hours compared to baseline and an untreated control site in twenty healthy women.
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2017Sodium cocoyl isethionate micelles are too large to penetrate stratum corneum aqueous pores, resulting in significant steric hindrance that prevents skin barrier perturbation and explains its skin mildness.
Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2007The cytotoxic effect of sodium lauryl sulphate on normal human keratinocytes was significantly decreased when combined with cocamidopropyl betaine, Tween 20, and Tween 80 at concentrations well below the critical micelle concentration.
Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, 2003The emollient V0034CR significantly reduced TEWL compared to vehicle and vehicle plus glycerol, and significantly increased corneometry scores compared to vehicle and vehicle plus petrolatum in healthy volunteers with dry skin, demonstrating combined barrier function improvement from petrolatum and hydration improvement from glycerol.
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2020Ten days of treatment with a cream containing 20% glycerin significantly increased skin hydration measured by corneometer values in 17 healthy volunteers compared to a placebo cream, but showed no influence on transepidermal water loss or skin sensitivity to an irritating surfactant.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2001Niacinamide/glycerin body moisturizers provided better rapid and prolonged improvement of cosmetic xerosis through functional improvement of stratum corneum barrier function compared to no treatment and conventional moisturizers in female subjects.
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2012A novel composition containing salicylic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, HEPES, glycolic acid, citric acid, and dioic acid showed similar tolerance and efficacy compared with clindamycin 1% and benzoyl peroxide 5% gel in subjects with acne vulgaris.
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2013Daily treatment with a facial serum containing multiple acids reduced post-inflammatory hyperchromia lesion grade and number by 29.4% at 56 days, and decreased skin oiliness by 30.7% at 7 days in Brazilian patients with acne vulgaris.
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2021Topical 20% citric acid lotion increases viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycan content in sun-damaged skin compared to vehicle alone.
Dermatologic Surgery, 1997
Why other cleansers fit skin with dark spots better
Niacinamide significantly decreased hyperpigmentation and increased skin lightness compared with vehicle alone after 4 weeks of use in women by inhibiting melanosome transfer.
The British Journal of Dermatology, 2002
Ingredients
Water, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycerin, Sodium Chloride, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Glycol Distearate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Disodium Edta, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Citral
Behind this fit score
Lovi calculates every fit score from the full ingredient list with brand-independent rules our dermatologists and cosmetic chemists build and review, and personalizes every pick with AI trained on the real results of millions of users. Lovi trains its fit score models on a proprietary dataset built from more than 10,000 expert-labeled products and more than 100,000 simulated examples, following an internally consistent methodology presented at Cosmoprof, AMWC, and Skin of Color Update.
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Co-founder, Medical Director
Cosmetic chemist, cosmetologist, aesthetic products developer
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Co-founder, CEO and CTO
PhD in computer science, 3x US patent holder, ex-Google, ex-Yandex
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Dr. Sofía Perea Pérez, MD, MSc
Medical Board
Aesthetic medicine practitioner, MSc in Longevity and Anti-Aging Medicine
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Medical Board
Specialist dermatologist, MBBS, MD, IFAAD
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Medical Board
Cosmetic chemist, SCS, IFSCC member
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Medical Board, Medical Advisor
Dermatology MD
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Elina Nazarenko, MD
Medical Board
Dermatology and diagnostic consultant
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Victoria Derkova, MS
Medical Board
Cosmetic chemist, cosmetic development technologist
How does it fit your skin?
Scan your face, then any product: Lovi shows how well it fits you and what fits even better.